Sunday, July 17, 2011
Cioccolati Italiani - Milano
Sunday, January 16, 2011
Crumbs, Washington, D.C.
1. A cupcake, when done well, can be beautiful to look at and tasty...but in and of itself, is not a complex confection.
2. New York has an obsession with cupcakes that has infected DC, for the better in the case of Georgetown Cupcake, which should represent the minimum standard for cupcakes (and the fact that it represents what cupcakers aspire to as the gold standard is a sad reflection of the masses' standard);
3. I will try almost anything at least once and, like the child to whom cereal box prizes appeal, novel gimmicks will entice me every time.
After dinner at Busboys and Poets with my high school friends, one of them suggested a cupcakery in Penn Quarter called Crumbs, with original outposts in New York. The catch with these cupcakes was that they were filled. Excellent, I thought in my head, the more elements the better. Less may be more in architecture, but not necessarily in pastries.
We arrived towards the end of the evening so the selection was limited. Having bought Rocky Road ice cream earlier in the week, my cupcake of choice was the S'more; I like to have a theme running through my dessert selections at any given point in time. A s'more, which would be one of the few things that I could tempt me to camp, is melted chocolate and marshmallow sandwiched between graham crackers. In this case, it was a chocolate cake with marshmallow fluff filling, topped with chocolate icing, and two graham crackers flanking a line of three marshmallows. The cake was somewhat moist and aerated, but at least not memorable for being terrible (both the cupcakes and the cake slices at Cake Love are too dense, even when served at room temperature), the icing was not overly sweet but not buttercream alas, and the topping was well presented. I was lukewarm about the marshmallow fluff. I wonder if it is possible to sprinkle little marshmallow pieces throughout the cake batter, preserving their soft, marshmallow integrity? That might have been a better embodiment of the marshmallow component of a s'more. The textures of the marshmallow fluff and cake were too much like oil and vinegar mixing...perhaps a marshmallow mousse next time? But thumbs up to Crumbs for the creative attempt!
Thursday, October 28, 2010
Bibiana, Washington D.C.
The name of the dessert reflected its components...duh. Nutella ice cream or maybe gelato which a chocolate dusted hazelnut on top. Hazelnuts have a very cute shape, as do pinenuts, but walnuts are baroque. The plate was dusted with ground hazelnut and I used the melting ice cream to hoover the hazelnut dust. The main attraction was the Nutella fried pastry filled with Nutella. As you may have gleaned from prior posts, I LOVE fried dough. (On a sidenote, Cacao on Bethesda offered tastings of fresh beignets on the day I arrived to DC. I hope heaven will have never-ending supplies of Cacao's hot chocolate and those beignets). I've had churros filled with dulce de leche and chocolate (not together), but never Nutella...until now. Brilliant! One was not enough, but one was all they gave me. One of these days, I will invest in a deep fryer, after buying a Kitchenaid stand mixer, and hire a house elf to fry fresh dough for me on command. Oh yeah, and since this post was supposed to be about the Nutella and not so much about the fried dough (I was carried away in a moment of ecstasy), the dollop of Nutella that the fried dough rested upon was a bonus. And for inquiring minds who have seen me go through jars of Nutella, I managed to restrain myself from licking the plate.
Sunday, August 8, 2010
Cafe de la Paix, Ramallah
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
La Cuisine, Jerusalem
Saturday, January 9, 2010
Ma Maison
My first contact with Valencia was the hollow, light pink, shimmering chocolate ball on top. Remembering a similar chocolate ball on my Cacao pastry, I eagerly bit into this one. Hmm, tasted somewhat old and stale (for chocolate). This was not a promising beginning, but perhaps Ma Maison outsourced its chocolate and the pastry itself would be better.
My first impression of this pastry was its density. So dense that huge pieces of it remained stuck to my fork after I licked off my fork. It is essentially an uncomplicated pastry. Chocolate ganache (not shiny, again, perhaps a sign of age or bad tempering?) enrobed a simple chocolate mousse sans base. At its core was an explosion of dark chocolate rice puffs and dark chocolate pieces. I characterize it as an explosion because literally, when I cut into the center of the pastry, dark chocolate pieces and rice puffs jumped out at me. I have tasted and appreciated the rice puff element in a piece of pastry but this version failed on at least two levels. First, the rice puffs were soggy so the essence of a rice puff - light, airy, crunchy - was lost. Second, as a result of the soggy rice puffs, they seemed thicker and only served to exacerbate the density and heaviness of the pastry.
I try so hard to like pastries, but this one was a flop. It was uncomplicated and the one area where it tried to be creative, i.e. the core of the pastry, was poorly executed. Let's hope the chocolatines and croissants from Ma Maison prove to be more successful tomorrow morning.
Sunday, August 23, 2009
La Bamboche
The Beach House - Sudbury, ON
Sunday, July 26, 2009
Cacao - Bethesda, MD
Disclaimer: Patisseries of Toronto goes international! Or at least, it goes wherever my travels take me. I would have expected the first non-Toronto entry to have been in Montreal, but my Easter visit to DC happened first and so I dedicate my first international entry to my hometown!
My mom's first experience of a macaron was in the Distillery District in Toronto and not very good so I had to make it up to her. Cacao has EXCELLENT hot chocolate (e.g. My parents wondered where I went when I suddenly left them, only to reappear several minutes later with hot chocolate and a boxed pastry). I'm not a huge fan of the yuppification of Bethesday Row, but it was worth it since Cacao has come along.
This dessert was a great combination of something new for my mom to try (raspberry macaron) and something for me (chocolate mousse). I didn't appreciate this aspect until I wrote my previous post, but 2009 must be the year of fuzzy desserts because the chocolate covering of the mousse was also fuzzy. Very rich, thick chocolate; I like my mousses on the dense side as opposed to being too aerated. The macaron was sweet and crispy on the outside but spongy and chewy in the center, all around great base for the chocolate.
Bonus points for aesthetics and the Easter theme. The white chocolate strips really did make it look like a bird's nest and the chocolate egg was edible. I'm not sure what I did with mini Fluffy Chick, but her fur/feathers were very soft. Clearly a quality bird ornament from a quality chocolate store!
Nadege Patisserie
Sunday, May 10, 2009
Cava - Churros con chocolate
Creperie La Brehandaise
Sunday, March 22, 2009
La Cigogne - Louis XIV
There are pastry shops that make sweet desserts that taste pretty good. Then there are pastry shops like La Cigogne that elevate desserts to works of art - a feast for the eyes and the tastebuds. Louis XIV only satisfies 50% of my senses, but I'm shallow enough that its glossiness blinds me (I'd make a terrible metaphor about the Sun King, but I won't inflict my Jack Aubrey sense of humor on my blog).
The ganache was as shiny in real life as in this photograph, but in consistency, rubbery and gummy. It detached itself like a layer of sunburnt skin from the pastry, which was somewhat bizarre. I really like the elevation of the pastry on the purple platform...except the platform didn't really taste like anything.
The pastry is comprised of layers of chocolate mousse, pear, and a black currant (?) base. The pear flavour was lost among the layers so I had to isolate and sample several times in order to identify it. The black currant base was delightful and a great pairing with chocolate. The pairing of these two alone would have satisfied me and was reflected in the overall color scheme of the pastry as well.
Monday, February 16, 2009
Breakfast and Dessert
Sunday, February 15, 2009
LPK's Culinary Groove (Part 2)
Friday, February 13, 2009
LPK's Culinary Groove (Part 1)
LPK's Culinary Groove's Passion Fruit Truffle Tart looks well-put together and elegant with a touch of whimsy from the fresh flower. I aspire to look like this pastry when I go to work in the morning. I'm glad the cape gooseberry was replaced by the flower, although I remain in the dark regarding what a cape gooseberry looks like.
The crust is a very moist shortbread so it sticks together with a slightly nutty in flavor, very thick on the sides but thinner on the bottom. While I am not usually a crust person, the drawback to the thinner crust in this instance is that there was nothing to absorb the ganache and, especially, the jam-like passion fruit caramel sauce.
The passion fruit caramel sauce formed approximately 1/3 of the tart with the remainder topped off by the ganache. The sauce was not as pungent when the tart was still cold, but as it warmed up to room temperature, the caramel and the sweet elements in the passion fruit started to overwhelm the chocolate. There was an undertone of tartness to the sauce, which I enjoyed and I suspect would have been echoed in the missing gooseberry. My suggestion to improve this tart would have been to use a darker chocolate with some acidity to balance the sweetness of the sauce, which I found to be too cloying in the end.
I liked the texture of this tart. The flavours of the sauce were carried by the stickiness of the ganache so that they seemed to infuse the chocolate.